Zaboravite Versace, Dior ili Chanel (ovo malo teže :), stigao je Rad! Pre koji dan, kanadski dizajner jordanskog porekla Rad Hourani izmamio je naklon pariske modne javnosti prvom zvaničnom unisex couture kolekcijom na svetu! Unisex, dobro ste čuli. Pri pomenu reči couture, većina nas pomisli na bombonjeraste haljine pune čipke i luksuznih ručno rađenih detalja, koje pripadaju na crvenom tepihu. Sva sreća, kriterijum za couture kolekciju nije broj ušivenih bisera, već vreme i trud uložen u izradu ovih umetničkih dela, zbog čega perfektni minimalizam Rada Houranija potpuno pripada ovde. Pažljivo čuvano francusko kulturno nasleđe, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, je svojim otvaranjem i pozivima Iris Van Herpen i Radu Houraniju, dokazala je da prati ovde i sada, i da je Margiela, sa svojom Artisanal linijom, na putu da postane pravilo, a ne usamljena anomalija.
Nemojte pogrešno da razumete, Rad ne želi da vidi muškarce u cvetnim haljinama i stiletto štiklama, niti žene kojima fale samo brkovi za total lokalni siledžija look, već pokušava da izbriše granice između muške i ženske garderobe. Ko kaže da devojčice treba da nose roze, a dečaci plavo? Rad Hourani nam nudi pravi unisex, suštinu oslobođenu forme, brisanje granica i prozor u ideal gde nije bitna boja kože, godine, pol, materijalno uopšte. Potraga za najmanjim zajedničkim sadržaocem između muškog i ženskog tela rađa neočekivane, dinamične i geometrijske, ali i senzualne forme. Koje apsolutno pripadaju i na ženskom, ali i na muškom telu. Arhitektura njegove mode kranje je pročišćena, ali istovremeno i veoma kompleksna. Minuciozno konstruisani detalji u monohromatskom okviru daju utisak bezvremenosti, ali govore i o jasnom poznavanju ovde i sada.
Svojom svežinom, jakim konceptom i hiruški čistom izvedbom, ova kolekcija naterala me je da vrisnem jedno glasno WOW! ispred monitora. Sa druge strane, ako previše radikalno postavite svoj koordinatni sistem, očekivanja sebe i drugih da nastavite da se krećete u njemu, opasnost su da postanete one trick pony, poput Garetha Pugha, čiji je previše određene kolekcije posle pete sezone deluju već viđeno.
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Forget Versace, Dior and Chanel (this one's going to be tricky :), here comes Rad! Couple of days ago, Canadian of Jordanian origin Rad Hourani left the fashion world speechless with the first ever official unisex couture collection! Yes, you've heard it right - it's unisex. Most of us associate the word couture with bombonniere-like Oscar-worthy dresses full of lace and meticulous detailing. Luckily for us, the criteria for something to be considered couture is not the number of embroidered pearls, but the time and effort invested in these works of art, which is exactly why Rad Hourani's perfect minimalism truly belongs here. Carefully guarded French cultural legacy, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, has shown the signs of opening by sending invitations to Iris Van Herpen and Rad Hourani, proving that Margiela with its Artisanal collection is on the way to become a rule, rather than an anomaly.
Don't get him wrong. Rad doesn't want to see men in heels and floral dresses, nor women missing only mustache for a local-bully-total-look, but to erase the boundaries between women's and men's clothing. Who says that girls are supposed to wear pink, while blue is for boys only? Rad Hourani is offering us a true unisex, dissolving the boundaries he frees the essence from mere form. He is showing us through a window into the ideal world where no skin color, gender, or, actually anything from the material world counts. The search for common territory between male and female body brings out the unexpected - dynamic and geometric, yet sensual forms, which absolutely belong both to male and female physique. The architecture of his fashion is pure, yet very complex at the same time. Meticulously constructed details within a monochromatic frame speaks of timelessness, but also show that Rad Hourani is very aware of here and now.
With its freshness, strong conceptual approach and surgically clean execution, this collection made me yell one big WOW! in front of my screen. On the other hand, if you set your coordinate system too radically, the expectation of other people to keep moving within it, there's a danger you will become a one trick pony, such as Gareth Pugh, whose collections look all similar after seeing five of them.
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Forget Versace, Dior and Chanel (this one's going to be tricky :), here comes Rad! Couple of days ago, Canadian of Jordanian origin Rad Hourani left the fashion world speechless with the first ever official unisex couture collection! Yes, you've heard it right - it's unisex. Most of us associate the word couture with bombonniere-like Oscar-worthy dresses full of lace and meticulous detailing. Luckily for us, the criteria for something to be considered couture is not the number of embroidered pearls, but the time and effort invested in these works of art, which is exactly why Rad Hourani's perfect minimalism truly belongs here. Carefully guarded French cultural legacy, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, has shown the signs of opening by sending invitations to Iris Van Herpen and Rad Hourani, proving that Margiela with its Artisanal collection is on the way to become a rule, rather than an anomaly.
Don't get him wrong. Rad doesn't want to see men in heels and floral dresses, nor women missing only mustache for a local-bully-total-look, but to erase the boundaries between women's and men's clothing. Who says that girls are supposed to wear pink, while blue is for boys only? Rad Hourani is offering us a true unisex, dissolving the boundaries he frees the essence from mere form. He is showing us through a window into the ideal world where no skin color, gender, or, actually anything from the material world counts. The search for common territory between male and female body brings out the unexpected - dynamic and geometric, yet sensual forms, which absolutely belong both to male and female physique. The architecture of his fashion is pure, yet very complex at the same time. Meticulously constructed details within a monochromatic frame speaks of timelessness, but also show that Rad Hourani is very aware of here and now.
With its freshness, strong conceptual approach and surgically clean execution, this collection made me yell one big WOW! in front of my screen. On the other hand, if you set your coordinate system too radically, the expectation of other people to keep moving within it, there's a danger you will become a one trick pony, such as Gareth Pugh, whose collections look all similar after seeing five of them.
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