Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haider Ackermann. Show all posts


Clean cut

S S 2013 ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// current obsessions
// Givenchy


// Alexander Wang


// Céline


// Maison Martin Margiela


// Stella McCartney


// Christopher Kane


// Neil Barett


// Hussein Chalayan


// Haider Ackermann


// Prabal Gurung


// Acne 



all photos via Vogue+Dazed




Sochi fashion week

Rusija, pokušaj prvi. Beograd-Soči via Moskva.

Sada verovatno svi očekuju opšte oduševljenje i utiske veselo šarene poput babuški i ruskih marama, no ništa od toga. Svuda mali broj bogatih uživa u onome što ima a većina pati zbog onoga što nema, ali čini mi se da su u Rusiji su te razlike još malo dublje i tužnije. Boljem utisku sigurno nije pomogla ni činjenica da sam bukvalno ceo dan na provodila na gradilištu - na moru, doduše, ali u sred kišno-snežne zime. Ako u ovu jednačinu ubacite i moje a la Dr House šepanje zbog dvostruko uganute noge, biće vam jasniji krajnji rezultat. I nije to što nisam imala vremena za turistički obilazak, iz kola sam videla dovoljno. Soči možda jeste najveće gradilište u okolini, ali kvantitet nikada nije bio zamena za kvalitet. Dok ne odete u Rusiju mislite da su njihovi sivi socrealistički kubusi vrhunac ružnoće, a onda shvatite da može i mnogo gore. Rusi su razmišljali po principu - ako nas jednostavni modernistički oblici asociraju na period komunizma koji želimo da zaboravimo, ajmo sve suprotno - i upali u kičasto preterivanje i bizarne interpretacije klasicizma.

Neka mi oproste Mira, Ulyanna i Vika, ali reč stil i nije prva koja mi pada na pamet kada razmišljam o Rusiji. Istina je da na osnovu tri dana u Sočiju i pet sati provedenih na moskovskom aerodromu ne smem da sudim, ali svakako mogu da primetim da se tamo i bogatiji sloj društva oblači prilično jeftino. Ne vucite me za jezik objašnjavam, znate već na šta mislim. A sa onakvom klimom, ne morate ni da pitate da li svi nose bunde od prirodnog krzna - pravi taksidermija-bal! Ipak, pošto mi jarčevi i nismo poznati po odustajanju, daću ja još koju šansu Rusiji. Kad već Soči nije, možda me Moskva ili Petrograd kupe.

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Russia, take one. Belgrade-Sochi via Moscow.

Now probably everyone expects waves of joy and impressions as colorful as matryoshka dolls and Russian scarves, but it wasn't like that at all. Of course everywhere a chosen minority enjoys life for what they have and the rest, the majority suffers for what they don't, but it seems that these differences in Russia are even more profound and more sad. Spending the whole day on the construction site didn't help either, and although it was on the seaside, it was in the middle of  a rainy and snowy winter. If you put my Dr House-like limping caused by a sprained ankle into equation, the result becomes even clearer. And it's not the fact that I didn't have any time for classic city tours, I've seen enough from a cab driving us to work every morning. Sochi might be the biggest construction site around, but quantity could never become a substitute for quality. Before you come to Russia you think that grime modernist cubes are the worst that can happen to architecture, but when you arrive you realize it's actually a lot worse. It's quite simple, actually - they became so traumatized by strict geometry of modern architecture that they've tried to escape as far as it gets. And they've got quite far...straight into kitschy via bizarre interpretations of classical architecture.

MiraUlyanna and Vika will forgive me, but style isn't exactly the first word that comes into my mind when someone says Russia. Of course I should not judge upon three days spent in Sochi and five hours on Moscow airport, but I have a right to notice that in Russia even rich dress quite cheap, if you know what I mean. Known for cold climate, you don't even have to ask whether everyone wears real fur coats - Moscow airport was a real taxidermy ball! On the other hand, we Capricorns are not known for giving up, so I will probably give Russia another chance. Even though Sochi didn't, Moscow or Saint Petersburg might buy my love.



Dok sam ja glamurozno šepala po blatnjavim gradilištima Sočija, dešavao se pariski fashion week. Eto, zato kasnim sa utiscima. 

A kad smo već kod (po)stizanja, kako se vi borite sa svakodnevnim obavezama, ima li tu mesta i vremena za blogovanje...? Ja sam u stalnom ratu sa vremenom, uvek ga je premalo za sve što želim da uradim i stalno kasnim (ako se neko pitao zašto nosim dva sata - eto razloga! :). Volela bih da imam više vremena za blog, ali nikako ne želim da redovno postovanje osetim kao obavezu...

Da se vratimo na Pariz. Evo jedne brzinske kompilacije prvih utisaka.

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While I was busy glamorously limping on construction sites of Sochi, there was a fashion week happening in Paris. That's why I'm late.

Speaking of making it on time, how do you manage to squeeze blogging into your everyday busy itinerary...? I'm constantly fighting with time, there's always too little of it for everything I want to do. Even wearing two watches doesn't help, I'm always late! :)

To make for the time lost, let's get back to Paris. Here's a little mix of first impressions.

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// Dries Van Noten
Za početak, Dries veličanstveni - volim da mislim da je on grafički dizajner zalutao u modu. Ovaj put to su šare Dalekog istoka, doslovno precrtane, ali upakovane u sasvim savremenu i nosivu geometriju, da sve ne bi izgledalo kao pozorišni kostim. // For starters, Dries the magnificent - I love to think of him as a graphic designer accidentally working in fashion. This time we have Far East drawings, used literally, but on a very contemporary and wearable geometries to avoid the theater costume effect.


// Balenciaga
Uz Nicolasa Ghesquièra, neopren je prešao dugačak put od ronilačkih odela do ženstvenog i chic! A tek rukavice <3 // Nicolas Ghesquièr manages to put feminine and chic into neoprene! And those gloves <3


// Céline
...pobeđuju u kategoriji pantalone, kao i uvek! // ...gets the award for the best pants, comme d'habitude!


// Haider Ackermann
Maestralno talasanje, poput Christiana Diora nekada! // Masterfully draping monochromatic textures, just like Christian Dior used to!


// Hussein Chalayan
Kralj geometrije, lično. // The master of geometry himself.


// Chanel
Karlova kristalna pećina ostavila me je bez daha... // Karl's crystal cave simply left me breathless...


I za kraj, još malo Rusije... // And a bit more of Russia for the very end...