hiPop: emerging designer

Showing posts with label emerging designer. Show all posts

cutout, Danish design, edgy, emerging designer, layering, minimalistic, VOID, Yvonne Laufer — 15 коментара

VOID

Nije prava naučnica, ali se ponaša baš kao da jeste. I ne, nisu u pitanju beli laboratorijski mantili Margiela tima. Za Yvonne Laufer, isprazne i proizvoljne rečenice poput 'inspirisalo me je...' ili subjektivan doživljaj lepote nisu dovoljni, ona zahteva naučnu metodologiju i preciznost. U svojoj najnovijoj kolekciji VOID (eng. praznina), ova mlada dizajnerka sa svežom diplomom Kraljevske umetničke akademije u Kopenhagenu, poigrava se konceptom negativnog prostora. Yvonne fasciniraju biljke koje rastu u/uz/kroz/oko objekata koje im nameće čovek, na taj način stvarajući neočekivane forme u krutim okvirima praznine koja im je (za)data. VOID je ono gde/kako one mogu da rastu, pravilo kojem moraju da se povinuju. Koristeći različite tehnike sečenja laserom, ona stvara rigidni okvir koji definiše puno, ali ne kaže da je ostalo prazno. Poput naučnika koji posmatra kako neka puzavica polako opseda zid od metalne žice, Yvonne Laufer pušta da drapirana tkanina slobodno pronađe put u zadatim okvirima, a onda samo beleži rezultate svog pažljivo pripremljenog eksperimenta. Čak i kada ne popunjava ove useke, mi ih ne doživljavamo kao prazne, već kao deo prostora koji je ukraden od praznine - iako nematerijan, ovo je prostor unutar granica, a samim time i jasno definisan. Ukratko, neka vrsta moderne, filigranski fine 3D dekoracije, skoro čipke, ali za XXI vek. Ako se ja pitam - ovaj eksperiment je definitivno uspeo!

Svet imaginarnih prostora Yvonne Laufer možete istražiti na njenom sajtu, a ja moram da se pohvalim da je moj Tumblr nalog prestao da skuplja sajberprašinu i postao mesto moje dnevne inspiracije (kasnim, znam! :), vidimo se (i) tamo! Ne znam da li ste čuli, ali Google ukida svoj Google Reader tako da više nećemo moći da pratimo omiljene blogove preko GFC-a. Hvala Jani što mi je otkrila spasonosni Feedly - osim što će rado prihvatiti sve blogove koje ste pratili preko Readera, ovaj put ćete ih gledati preko interfejsa koji je zaista 3L - lep, lak i logičan! Naravno, tu su i stari dobri Bloglovin' i Facebook :)

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She's not a real scientist, but she surely acts (& thinks) like one. And no, it's not the team Margiela white lab coats! For Yvonne Laufer, over(ab)used sentences such as 'I've been inspired by...' and subjective experience of beauty are simply not good enough, she demands scientific methodology and mathematical precision. Fresh from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, this young designer investigates the concept of negative space in her latest collection VOID. Fascinated by the interaction between plants and man made objects, she learns from them growing in and outside a confined space. VOID is what and where they can grow, a rule they have to obey. Yvonne uses various laser cut techniques to create a rigid frame in which she can investigate the concept of negative space. Some cut outs leave space for a second layer or another fabric, others form some kind of modern lace. Just like a biologist watching vine climbing up a metal mesh wall, Yvonne Laufer lets the second fabric find its way through strictly defined paths, only to observe and register the results of a meticulously prepared experiment. And I would say this one is surely successful!

You can continue investigating the universe of Yvonne Laufer's imaginary spaces on her website. Speaking of websites, I have finally decided to remove all the cyberdust from my Tumblr account and start using it (I'm a tad late, I know! :), see you there! I don't know whether you've heard the big news already, but Google is shutting down Google Reader, so you won't be able to follow your favorite blogs through GFC. Thanks Jana, for introducing us to Feedly, that will finally make browsing+reading a pleasant experience, as well as it will smoothly import all your Google Reader blogs. And for those who want to minimize the fuss, there are always good old Bloglovin' and Facebook :)

photos / gifs via Yvonne Laufer and MadeInSchool

Antwerp, emerging designer, Jantine Van Peski — 16 коментара

All tied up

Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons. Pa A.F. Vandervorst i Haider Ackermann. Svi odreda iz foldera omiljeni dizajneri, svi odreda sa Kraljevske akademije lepih umetnosti u Antverpenu. Holanđanka Jantine Van Peski je, osim što poseduje diplomu iste škole, već bila na praksi u ove poslednje dve modne kuće.

Počela je od čvorova, a završila sa diplomskom kolekcijom Wires 10.0, inspirisanom tekstilnim skulpturama iz sedamdesetih i macramé tehnikom. Jednostavna u svojim formama, ali složena u teksturi i obradi, kolekcija Wires 10.0 preispituje žensku siluetu. Mislim da mi se baš zato i dopada - život u Srbiji naterao me je da usku garderobu izjednačim sa uskim shvatanjima. Volim Belgijance i Holanđane, jer ne razmišljaju da li je moda lepa, već da li je pametna.

Osim toga, divno mi je kada vidim da neko oživi stare zanate i tehnike kroz savremen dizajn. Čvorovi od svile, vune i najfinije kože, dobili su sasvim novo značenje u minimalističkim oblicima Jantine Van Peski.

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Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons. Then A.F. Vandervorst and Haider Ackermann. All from my favorite designers folder, all from Royal Academy of Fine Arts from Antwerp. Besides a Master degree from the same school, Jantine Van Peski already has internships at A.F. Vandervorst and Haider Ackermann checked in her bio.

She started from knots, using only one kind to build pieces of clothing out of cord and yarn, and ended with an outstanding Master's degree collection - Wires 10.0. Jantine was strongly influenced by the textile sculptures from the 1970's and specifically macramé-technique. The forms might be somewhat purist, but Jantine's collection is so rich and complex when it comes to texture and craftsmanship it demands. Wires 10.0 investigates into a female silhouette, and offers solutions that are out of the ordinary. I guess that's exactly why I loved it so much - living in Serbia, where it is far more important to undress, rather than to dress, made me see tight clothes synonymous with a lack of taste. That's why I love Belgians and Dutch so much - they don't care whether fashion is beautiful, smart is enough.

Besides, I'm really touched every time I see someone channeling ancient techniques and crafts through contemporary design. Minimalist shapes really gave a new meaning to knots, that Jantine so masterfully made of silk, wool and finest leather.

accessories, baroque, emerging designer, eye wear, Moo, Piyasombatkul — 9 коментара

Zaljubila sam se! // I fell in love!

...u Moo Piyasombatkul, u stvari, u njene naočare. Niste ni morali da pitate, ima diplomu Central Saint Martin's koledža, na kojoj se štamparska boja još nije pošteno ni osušila, a njena debitantska kolekcija Baroque eyes već je našla svoje mesto na policama prestižnog londonskog Browns-a.

Okviri, klasični u svakom smislu, u kombinaciji sa filigranski izrađenim baroknim ukrasima od najfinijeg porcelana zaista deluju kao mala pobeda onog ljudskog nad bezdušnim tehnološkim napretkom. I stvarno, uvek me razneži kada neko interpretira stare veštine i zanate na nov način, mnogo više nego nesalomivi ramovi od titanijuma, koje NASA testira u svemiru, ili bar tako mora da piše na reklami. Dakle, duhovito, toplo vs. hladno i mehanički savršeno. Ja znam za šta sam se odlučila.

Jeste da morate da vodite računa da se nežni porcelan ne polomi pri nošenju, ali u tome je i čar, zar ne?

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...with Moo Piyasombatkul, or with her eye wear, to be exact. No, you didn't have to ask, she is a Central Saint Martin's college graduate. The printed letters on her diploma didn't get a chance to dry properly and she already got a chance to sell her debut collection Baroque eyes at a very posh Browns of London.

Her eye glasses, very classical in every sense, combined with fine porcelain of baroque lines, do indeed seem like a small victory of human over soulless technological advance. I'm always moved when one interprets an ancient know-how in a new way, so much more than I'm impressed with indestructible eye wear made of titanium and approved by NASA (or so it has to say in the advertisement). So, warm and human, with a pinch of humor vs. cold mechanical perfection. I know whose side I will take.

And yes, you have to take a lot of care when wearing fragile porcelain, but that's where magic is, right?