Showing posts with label New York fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New York fashion week. Show all posts


Eclectic


Nije da Philip Lim voli da gazi neutabanim stazama, niti to od njega očekujemo. Recept ne može biti bolji – uzmete trendove koje su vaše (hrabrije) kolege već isprobale na pistama – prelive u duginim bojama dobro umešati u sto grama belog minimalizma, smeši dodati dve mere marble printa i prstohvat mokre, Prada kose.  Dobar tajming je sve, reći će vam bilo koja kuvar(ica). Iako ne donosi inovaciju, Philip Lim bira savršen momenat – trendove koji su se već dokazali, ali još nisu stigli da nam se smuče! Nosivo, nepretenciozno i kranje pragmatično, jer znamo da se u Njujorku igra na sigurno.  Iz daljine možda izgleda kao izlog Zare (u kojem će, bez sumnje, za koji mesec i završiti), ali đavo je u detaljima – ovo su remek-dela modelovanja i krojenja, spremna za nošenje, da ne kažem – ready to wear. O cipelama ne treba ni govoriti, samo ih posedovati.

Kako stvari u životu nisu crno-bele (kod Helmuta Langa jesu – and I love it! :), moram da priznam da Philip Lim, osim perfektnog pakovanja postojećih trendova, inspiraciju bogatim teksturama iz prirode ipak odvodi i korak dalje. Marble print postaje geode, neobrađeni kristal, dok novo polje za kreativno poigravanje postaje i šara drveta, pitajte samo Lindu van Niekerk ili Paul Beelena, oni ovim materijalom suvereno vladaju.  Ko zna kakve će (r)evolucije doneti ovogodišnji Pariz ili London, a do tada – uživajmo u lepoti eklektičnog!

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We all know that Philip Lim is not too keen on being a trailblazer, not that we expect him to be one. The recipe could have hardly been easier (and better, for that matter) - take a couple of catwalk-proven trends and mix them masterfully - you will need two ounces of white minimalism, three cups of marble print and a pinch of wet, Prada hair.  Good timing is everything, any cook will tell you. While he might not be the one changing (or setting) the rules of the game, Philip Lim chooses the perfect moment to follow a trend - while it has already proven it is here to stay (for a while, at least :), we still didn't have enough time to get sick of it! Wearable, unpretentious and truly pragmatic, because we know New York is all about playing it safe. It might look like Zara window from a distance (it's just a matter of weeks before it ends there, actually) but the devil is in the details - these are some serious tailoring masterpieces, yet they're ready to wear (pun intended). Oh, and the shoes, don't talk about them, just try to own them.

As things in life are rarely black and white (except at Helmut Lang's - and I love it :) I must admit that Philip Lim has shown us than he can do a lot more than perfectly packing current trends. He brings the fascination with lush natural textures a step further - marble print becomes geode, while the wood reveals itself as an endless inspiration - just ask Linda van Niekerk or Paul Beelen. And while holding your breath to see what kind of (r)evolution will Paris or London bring this year, take a break (or breath) and enjoy a bit of eclectic beauty!


all pics via Dazed + Vogue


twist // fold



current obsessions /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Spring 2013 //////
////////////////// Céline


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Pre-Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// Alexander Wang


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// Alexander Wang


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Pre-Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// Dior


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// Derek Lam


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// J W Anderson


//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Fall 2013 //////
////////////////// Donna Karan


 photos via Vogue // Dazed // Google










New York, bits & pieces

Kada je reč o njujorškoj nedelji mode, ne očekujem inovacije. Marc Jacobs da mi dušu prosti, ali imam utisak da američki kreatori vrlo često interpretiraju trendove koji su se prethodnih sezona primili sa one strane okeana. Jeste, svi znamo kako je američki liberalni kapitalizam surov i kako tamo nema mesta eksperimentu, niti 'propaloj' sezoni, jer sleduje - otkaz. Gledano sa lepše strane, New York fashion weeku uvek se okrenem kada želim da vidim nešto praktično i nosivo, ali i dalje vrlo chic. Ready-to-wear ovde je upotrebljen u pravom smislu reči!

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I don't really expect too much of an innovative approach when it comes to New York fashion week.Oh, Marc Jacobs please forgive me of my sins, but I have this impression that american designers often simply interpret trends that have proven that they were here to stay, usually initiated by the more experiment-prone bunch on the other side of the ocean. We are all aware of competitiveness and unforgiving nature of american liberal capitalism, which surely does influence the fashion industry. No matter who you are, there's simply no room for experimentation or a 'bad' season that it might lead to it, as you will get - fired. Look on the bright side of things - the result is very practical and wearable, yet still very chic. Ready-to-wear in the true sense of word!

// Alexander Wang

Čizme na F/W 2012 listu želja  - check. // Put those amazing boots on F/W 2012 wish list - check.


// Helmut Lang


//Jeremy Laing


// Philip Lim


// Rag & Bone

Kupili su me ovim naramenica-ogrlicama! // They've totally bought me with those shoulder-reaching necklaces!


// Theyskens theory


// Doo.Ri


// The Row



// Thakoon


// Ports 1961


Moram priznati da me je najviše i najlepše iznenadio Max Azria. Već dugo otpisujem njegove revije kao previše konvencionalne, ali ovaj put se malo udaljio od svojih standardnih tema i priklonio geometrijskom trendu koji hara već nekoliko sezona. BCBG kolekcija za jesen/zimu 2012 svakako nije čudo neviđeno ali nemam ništa protiv kad neko lepo pozajmljuje (pardon, interpretira :).  

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I must admit i didn't see it coming, but nevertheless I fell in love with BCBG Max Azria vision for the upcoming winter. I'm not much of a fan, usually, but this time I was pleasantly surprises to see that he departed from his usual design approach (a bit too much on a conventional side for me) and gave a geometric trend a try. Not that he's the pioneer of fashion geometry, but I have to give him credits for smooth borrowing (or should I say interpreting :) from other designers who've already gave their geometric opinion.


I ajde da je samo jednom, ali Max Azria je ponovo iznenadio  - ovaj put zaljubila sam se u kožne remene iz njegove kolekcije za Hervé Léger. //  Max Azria managed to surprise me again - this time I fell in love with leather harnesses he used for F/W 2012 Hervé Léger collection.
I za kraj, jedan naklon master Jacobsu, neka mi oprosti, ali njegov nadrealizam inspirisan Alisom u zemlji čuda nipošto se nije uklapao u ovu pragmatičnu listu želja. // Last, but not the least, I have to take a bow in front of Mister (or Master) Jacobs, as his Alice in wonderland surrealism was a far cry from this pragmatic, truly ready to wear wish list.