Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela, Dries
Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons. Pa A.F. Vandervorst i Haider
Ackermann. Svi odreda iz foldera omiljeni dizajneri, svi odreda sa Kraljevske akademije lepih umetnosti u Antverpenu. Holanđanka Jantine Van Peski je, osim što poseduje diplomu iste škole, već bila na praksi u ove poslednje dve modne kuće.
Počela je od čvorova, a završila sa diplomskom kolekcijom Wires 10.0, inspirisanom tekstilnim skulpturama iz sedamdesetih i macramé tehnikom. Jednostavna u svojim formama, ali složena u teksturi i obradi, kolekcija Wires 10.0
preispituje žensku siluetu. Mislim da mi se baš zato i dopada - život u
Srbiji naterao me je da usku garderobu izjednačim sa uskim shvatanjima.
Volim Belgijance i Holanđane, jer ne razmišljaju da li je moda lepa, već da li je pametna.
Osim
toga, divno mi je kada vidim da neko oživi stare zanate i tehnike kroz
savremen dizajn. Čvorovi od svile, vune i najfinije kože, dobili su
sasvim novo značenje u minimalističkim oblicima Jantine Van Peski.
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Antwerp Six. Martin Margiela, Dries
Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons. Then A.F. Vandervorst and Haider
Ackermann. All from my favorite designers folder, all from Royal Academy of Fine Arts from Antwerp. Besides a Master degree from the same school, Jantine Van Peski already has internships at A.F. Vandervorst and Haider
Ackermann checked in her bio.
She started from knots, using only one kind to build pieces of clothing out of cord and yarn, and ended with an outstanding Master's degree collection - Wires 10.0. Jantine was strongly influenced by the textile sculptures from the 1970's and specifically macramé-technique. The forms might be somewhat purist, but Jantine's collection is so rich and complex when it comes to texture and craftsmanship it demands. Wires 10.0 investigates into a female silhouette, and offers solutions that are out of the ordinary. I guess that's exactly why I loved it so much - living in Serbia, where it is far more important to undress, rather than to dress, made me see tight clothes synonymous with a lack of taste. That's why I love Belgians and Dutch so much - they don't care whether fashion is beautiful, smart is enough.
Besides, I'm really touched every time I see someone channeling ancient techniques and crafts through contemporary design. Minimalist shapes really gave a new meaning to knots, that Jantine so masterfully made of silk, wool and finest leather.
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