hiPop: September 2013

black and white, edgy, minimalism, Paris fashion week, Rick Owens, Spring 2014, step dance, Vicious — 11 коментара

Paris Is Burning

Niko ne boluje od tradicije kao Francuzi. Zna se kako izgledaju revije i ko sedi u prvom redu, tračevi su diskretni, a poljupci obavezno vazdušni. Pozivnicu za ovo društvo nije lako dobiti, a i kada vas pozovu, očekuje se da se ponašate kao dobar gost. Sva sreća pa je tu enfant terrible pariske nedelje mode - Rick Owens, da udahne malo svežeg vazduha ustajalim modno-društvenim konvencijama. Ulične plesačice daleko od manekenskih proporcija nose Rickovu najnoviju kolekciju Vicious, dok rasturaju pistu (da ne kažem podijum :) u ritmovima Afrike, ali i ulice - slika koja ne može biti dalje od uštogljenog pariskog, crème de la crème modnog univerzuma. Pre koju sezonu, Rad Hourani najavio je promenu svojom unisex couture kolekcijom, ali ovo je definitivno objava revolucije! Nadam se samo da ova neće pojesti sopstvenu decu, kao Francuska.

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Tradition is definitely a French malaise. Rules are everywhere - from what the shows are supposed to look like to who gets to sit in the front row. Bisous here and there, all kisses are sent in air. This is an invitation only society and once you get in they will expect you to abide by its rules. Fortunately, here comes the PFW enfant terrible - Rick Owens, to bring some fresh air into the stale Parisian atmosphere! Conventional stick-like models were replaced with street cred step dancers who wore Rick's latest collection Vicious while simultaneously rocking the catwalk (or, should I say - dancefloor :) with their non-model proportions. A picture that cannot be much further from what we imagine Parisian crème de la crème fashion universe to be like. When Rad Hourani presented his unisex couture collection couple of seasons ago it was the announcement of change, but this is more like revolution! Let's just hope this one will not devour its children, as the French one did.

all pics via Dazed & Confuzed // Vogue // The Sartorialist

3.1, black and white, geode, jewels, marble print, mesh, minimalism, New York fashion week, NYFW, Philip Lim, Spring 2014, wood print — 9 коментара

Eclectic

Nije da Philip Lim voli da gazi neutabanim stazama, niti to od njega očekujemo. Recept ne može biti bolji – uzmete trendove koje su vaše (hrabrije) kolege već isprobale na pistama – prelive u duginim bojama dobro umešati u sto grama belog minimalizma, smeši dodati dve mere marble printa i prstohvat mokre, Prada kose. Dobar tajming je sve, reći će vam bilo koja kuvar(ica). Iako ne donosi inovaciju, Philip Lim bira savršen momenat – trendove koji su se već dokazali, ali još nisu stigli da nam se smuče! Nosivo, nepretenciozno i kranje pragmatično, jer znamo da se u Njujorku igra na sigurno. Iz daljine možda izgleda kao izlog Zare (u kojem će, bez sumnje, za koji mesec i završiti), ali đavo je u detaljima – ovo su remek-dela modelovanja i krojenja, spremna za nošenje, da ne kažem – ready to wear. O cipelama ne treba ni govoriti, samo ih posedovati.

Kako stvari u životu nisu crno-bele (kod Helmuta Langa jesu – and I love it! :), moram da priznam da Philip Lim, osim perfektnog pakovanja postojećih trendova, inspiraciju bogatim teksturama iz prirode ipak odvodi i korak dalje. Marble print postaje geode, neobrađeni kristal, dok novo polje za kreativno poigravanje postaje i šara drveta, pitajte samo Lindu van Niekerk ili Paul Beelena, oni ovim materijalom suvereno vladaju. Ko zna kakve će (r)evolucije doneti ovogodišnji Pariz ili London, a do tada – uživajmo u lepoti eklektičnog!

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We all know that Philip Lim is not too keen on being a trailblazer, not that we expect him to be one. The recipe could have hardly been easier (and better, for that matter) - take a couple of catwalk-proven trends and mix them masterfully - you will need two ounces of white minimalism, three cups of marble print and a pinch of wet, Prada hair. Good timing is everything, any cook will tell you. While he might not be the one changing (or setting) the rules of the game, Philip Lim chooses the perfect moment to follow a trend - while it has already proven it is here to stay (for a while, at least :), we still didn't have enough time to get sick of it! Wearable, unpretentious and truly pragmatic, because we know New York is all about playing it safe. It might look like Zara window from a distance (it's just a matter of weeks before it ends there, actually) but the devil is in the details - these are some serious tailoring masterpieces, yet they're ready to wear (pun intended). Oh, and the shoes, don't talk about them, just try to own them.

As things in life are rarely black and white (except at Helmut Lang's - and I love it :) I must admit that Philip Lim has shown us than he can do a lot more than perfectly packing current trends. He brings the fascination with lush natural textures a step further - marble print becomes geode, while the wood reveals itself as an endless inspiration - just ask Linda van Niekerk or Paul Beelen. And while holding your breath to see what kind of (r)evolution will Paris or London bring this year, take a break (or breath) and enjoy a bit of eclectic beauty!