wo // man


Ukoliko iz prvog reda ne gledate modele kroz svoj iPad screen, dok istovremeno objavljujete na svojim Pinstagramima, džaba ste krečili svoj fashion week post. S obzirom da me od prvog deli malo više redova, da ne kažem (hiljada) kilometara, dajem sebi slobodu da konzumiram polako, upijam boje, teksture i oblike, lagano varim... I svake sezone, bude neka revija koja je to, mislim - sve to. Gde želim i haljine, i jakne, i cipele i torbe, a onda - i sve to zajedno. Prošlog proleća sam balavila na Céline, da bi me kasnije potpuno kupio Givenchy, a ove sezone zbog Stelle sedim širom otvorenih usta ispred monitora. Neko će reći - mo'š misliti, masculine chic, ništa novo - ali Stella McCartney čini prugasto Al Kapone odelo istinski modernim, interpretirajući ga kroz neočekivane forme i materijale. Savršeno se nadovezuje na sporty luxe rečenicu koju je započeo J W Anderson još prošle jeseni, Stella spaja udobnost i eleganciju. Ovo nije žena u muškoj odeći, ovo je nova ženstvenost, ovde i sada!

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Well, as it turns out, in case you're not lucky enough to watch the shows from the first row through your iPad screen, while simultaneously posting on all your Pinstagrams, there's not too much in point posting about fashion weeks. As I am more than couple of rows (or should I say thousands of kilometers) away from the first one, I like my fashion week shows served slow, so I can savour all the colors, shapes and textures... And every season there is a show that has it all - I would sell my soul to the Devil to have everything there - dresses, jackets, bags and shoes, and then sell it once again to have it all together. I've spent last spring drooling over my keyboard because of those Céline revolutionary oversized shapes, only to be completely bought by Givenchy a season later. This time it is Stella McCartney who keeps my mouth wide open in front of the computer screen. Some might say - hey, masculine chic, not that it is something revolutionary or unseen - but Stella made those Al Capone pinstripes truly modern using unexpected forms and materials. Being elegant, yet comfortable, clothes from Stella McCartney latest collection finish perfectly that sporty luxe sentence that J W Anderson started last Fall. This is not a woman wearing men's clothes, but the essence of new femininity, here and now!

// Stella McCartney / Fall 2013


// Maison Martin Margiela  / Fall 2013


// Comme des Garçons  / Fall 2013


// Givenchy  / Pre-Fall 2013


// Rad Hourani  / Fall 2013


// Alexander Wang / Fall 2013


// Balenciaga / Fall 2013


// Acne / Fall 2013


// Vogue China / January 2013


// Céline / Pre-Fall 2013


// J W Anderson / Fall 2012


// Yang Li / Pre-Fall 2013


// W Magazine / March 2013


all photos via Vogue // Dazed // Tumblr


One Off


Dobra perspektiva zahteva (raz)daljinu. Kada me je Ika zamolila da odavde odaberem jedan komad nakita, shvatila sam koliko se moj stil (ustvari, stil nije dobra reč, previše je bezvremen, recimo - trenutne opsesije) izmenio u proteklih nekoliko godina. Ja od pre koju sezonu uzela bi statement ogrlicu, (o)lako je nabacila na cvetnu košulju i, verovatno, završila ovu modnu rečenicu nekim Laurentovskim šeširom. Prihvatam izazov. Znam, daleko sam od modne katarze koja trenutno težim, ali mi put do tamo definitivno prija. Igra tekstura i sudar oblika, umesto boja. Ne bojim se neboja

Tako sam, nekako, i stigla do ovog outfita.  Neopren, kao ovde i sada, retrofuturizam u svom najboljem, superherojskom izdanju. Preskočiću upoznavanje - DIY Balenciaga neoprenski uradak moje šnajderke Dese prošli put nosila je Radoslava, sećate se ovog videa? Inače, volim kada arhetipski odevni predmet  nekom intervencijom dobije kvalitet paradoksa - ima li šta bolje od plisirane midi suknje koja je jednostavnim, asimetričnim odsecanjem, brzinom svetlosti prešla put od tetkastog do superedgy? I kratka i duga, ali definitivno više nikada iz maminog ormara. Flatforme, paradoks broj dva - ravno, a na visini. Spajajući ovako jake modne elemente na jednom mestu, rizikovala sam da izgledam kostimirano, kao da sam pobegla sa neke geekovske konvencije ljubitelja SF filma. I tu dolazi (onako superherojski, to the rescue, a kako drugačije? :) ogrlica iz prošlosti. Jedan off, dovoljan da ne bude sve previše uklopljeno i kostimirano, spasio je stvar.

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

True perspective requires a distance. When Ika asked me to pick a necklace from here, I realized how much my style (style, as something out of time not necessarily being the best choice of words here, I'd better use current obsessions) has changed in last couple of years. Me from couple of seasons ago would easily put this statement necklace on top of some floral print shirt, only to end up this fashion sentence with a Laurent-esque hat. I'll take the challenge. I know, I'm still quite far from the fashion catharsis I am aspiring for, but I'm definitely enjoying the journey there. Play of textures and tectonics of shape, instead of colors. Monochromatic is not monotonous.

That is how I got here, actually. Neoprene, being here and now, is superhero retro-futurism at its best. I'll skip the introduction - it was Radoslava who wore this DIY Balenciaga neoprene sweater last time, remember this video? Sometimes, a simple intervention can totally change the archetypal nature of an object and give it a paradoxical quality.  Is there anything better than a simple, asymmetrical cut that fast forwarded this midi pleated skirt from grandma's closet to superedgy? Mini and maxi at the same time, but never dull again. Paradox no.2, flatforms - flat, but high. Of course, if you put so many bold pieces together, you're at risk of being mistaken for someone headed for a local Star Trek geek convention. This is where this necklace from the past comes in (to the rescue, of course, is there any other way? :) One off, to break the superhero costume-y feel, has saved the day.




statement necklace thanks to NYC-licious // DIY neoprene neoprene sweater // DIY dip hem pleated skirt // New Look sheer black shirt // hardware store rings // H&M bag // Vagabond flatforms

photo // Ivana Korać



NEO Love


Nisam sigurna da li je do (lepog) sećanja na Kijanu Rivsa iz filma Point Break, ili Star Wars dukseva iz Balenciaga kolekcije za jesen 2012, tek, moja nova opsesija zove se - neopren. Nastao u laboratorijama kompanije DuPont još dalekih tridesetih godina prošlog veka, neopren je prešao dugačak put od ronilačkih odela, ortopedskih pomagala i mamaca za ribolovce, do rado viđenog gosta na modnim pistama. Naravno da su prvi bili modni pioniri iz Japana - Yohji Yamamoto i Rei Kawakubo - koje su zatim, shvativši potencijal novog materijala, ispratili Ghesquière za Balenciagu, McQueen, Raf Simons, Calvin Klein iiii... svi drugi!   Neopren kao inspiraciju iskoristila je i berlinska dizajnerka španskog porekla Alba Prat, koja u svojim   kolekcijama Digitized i Synthetic Oceans laserski sečeni neopren pretvara u dinamične 3D topografije. Iako već osamdesetogodišnjak, neopren je i dalje (modni) revolucionar. Materijal koji spaja kontraste - dovoljno krut da bude skulptoralan, a opet dovoljno mekan da bude udoban. Neosporno moćan, ali ipak lagan. Možete ga savijati, preklapati, isecati laserom, jednako impresivan biće i kao dvodimenzionalna tekstura, i kao 3D skulptura! Rečju - inspiracija, od n do n. 

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

I can't really tell whether it's the (pleasant) memories of Keanu Reeves from Point Break, or Star Wars sweatshirts from Balanciaga Fall 2012 collection, but my new obsession has a name - neoprene. Developed by DuPont scientists in early 1930s, it was quite a long way for neoprene from wetsuits, orthopedic braces and fly fishing waders to fashion catwalks. It is no wonder that neoprene was first used by fashion-forward Japanese pioneers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, followed by Ghesquière for Balenciaga, McQueen, Raf Simons, Calvin Klein and... just about everyone else! Alba Prat, Berlin-based designer of a Spanish origin, used laser-cut neoprene to create dramatic 3D topographies in her amazing collections Digitized and Synthetic Oceans. Pass its 80th birthday, neoprene is still a true (fashion) revolutionary. It brings contrasts together - stiff enough to be sculptural, yet soft enough to be wearable. Undeniably powerful, but not heavy. You can bend it, fold it, laser-cut it - it will be equally impressive as a texture, or a three dimensional sculpture! In one word - a true inspiration.


all pics via Google // Tumblr // Vogue // thisispaper // Yatzer // Love Aesthetics

p.s. Crnu H&M suknju i DIY neopren tuniku već ste upoznali, u narednom postu videćete je i u malo drugačijem izdanju :) // p.s. You're already familiar with the black H&M skirt and DIY neoprene tunic, which will have a slightly different role in my next post :)



Tube


Repertoar začudnih faca u lokalnoj gvožđari značajno se proširio posle ovog DIY projekta. Ako ste mislili da  je isprobavanje zavrtanja u ulozi prstenja bilo vrhunac, trebali ste da vidite ljubaznog gospodina gvožđara kada sam krenula ovo crevo da obmotavam oko vrata. U dilemi da li da zove hitnu pomoć, policiju ili jednostavno ludnicu, samo mi je rekao da dođem da mu pokažem ogrlicu kad završim.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

The repertoire of open-mouthed facial expressions in the local hardware store have become significantly richer after this DIY project. If you thought that trying on nuts and bolts on your fingers would do it, you should have seen the face of a kind hardware store clerk when I started wrapping this plastic tube around my neck. He couldn't decide whether to call police or send me straight to nuthouse, and in the end he just told me to drop by and show him the necklace when it's finished. 


photo // Jovana